Balmain: The working class borough now an inner-west haven by the water

It’s hard to believe that the striking suburb of Balmain started out as a working class borough, used for shipbuilding and coal mining. Though a lot has changed, even today it’s not hard to notice the integral place that history holds steeped within its scenic streets.

Despite its location on a peninsula, Balmain takes full advantage of its ideal isolation, gentrifying into a self-contained neighbourhood, with all the daily necessities, and then some.

At the same time, for those who wish to venture out, Sydney’s city centre is only six kilometres away by road, conveniently served by both buses and a ferry wharf.

The main thoroughfare through town, Darling Street, runs all the way from Victoria Road in Rozelle to East Balmain, winding its way right down to the water. Dotted with endless amounts of cafes, eateries, pubs, and bars, it’s here where after-work drinks at trendy beer gardens and Sunday brunch at cosy cafes go hand in hand.

But undoubtedly the main attraction here is the shimmering water views, with glimpses of the harbour and Harbour Bridge all-around.

Being in Balmain means being by the water, where picnicking at the waterfront Elkington Park, observing rowers heading off from Balmain Rowing Club, or doing laps at the Dawn Fraser Baths – the oldest pool and swimming club in Australia – is a way of life.

Here’s how you can bask in the beauty of Balmain.

Start your day with brunch at Kafeine cafe

A great way to start the day, as the locals do, is by heading directly to Kafeine cafe.

Decorated with an eclectic mix of wooden tables, metal chairs, exposed brick walls, and splashes of jade green tiles, this warm and welcoming locale brings a touch of retro to the Darling Street strip of Balmain.

And like a great morning pick-me-up, the cafe serves Campos coffee, freshly squeezed juices, and an all-day breakfast menu, with favourites such as an egg and bacon roll, smashed avocado, and eggs benedict.

On your way out, why not grab another coffee to go, and take a little stroll down toward the harbour?

Enjoy a scenic lunch at the historic site of The Fenwick 

Located on the harbour foreshore in Balmain East, The Fenwick is a beacon of Balmain’s historic sandstone buildings, now restored into a multifaceted cafe and gallery space.

Offering a quintessential Sydney dining experience within a historical setting, here lunch is served with views sweeping from Barangaroo to the iconic Sydney Harbour Bridge and Luna Park.

On the menu, you can make your way from nibbles to desserts, ordering anything from Sydney rock oysters to potato gnocchi, and dark chocolate tiramisu.

After lunch, head upstairs to The Fenwick’s unique gallery space, where the works of local and international artists are delightfully displayed.

Have dinner in the charming courtyard of The Cottage Bar & Kitchen

Back at Darling Street, there are myriad of restaurants to choose from come dinner time, and perhaps most charming of them all is The Cottage Bar & Kitchen.

Set within a whimsical Balmain terrace, this local eatery is easy to love with its outdoor seating spilling out onto the quaint courtyard, leafy surrounds, and shimmering festoon lights. It’s the type of spot you wish you could throw a dinner party in, if only you lived in such a dreamy terrace.

Their kitchen menu includes everything from grazing plates filled with a selection of cheeses and meats, served with crackers and trimmings, to mains like crispy barramundi and pork belly.

Cosy up at the quaint Field Blend Wine & Cheese Store

There’s nothing too flashy or complicated about the Field Blend Wine & Cheese Store – and that’s precisely why it works a treat.

This wine and cheese shop, again located at the quiet end of Darling Street, places its focus on small-scale operators over mass-produced wine makers, providing a sentimental and personal appeal.

Even the quaint venue matches this intimate nature, with features like handmade timber shelves, blown-glass light fixtures, and a large glass fridge packed with Australian and French cheeses and locally produced meats.

What’s more, the store also offers takeaway hamper boxes, meaning you can simply pop in, grab some goods, and make your way for a picnic in the park.