Colab in Kensington: The Magic Faraway Tree of coffee

It’s the Magic Faraway Tree of coffee. Each month the land spins away and a different roaster comes to town. Last month was Toby’s Estate, next month a mystery guest is on the cards, but right now Reverence beans are in the grinders.

Colab is a “concept” cafe, a collaboration between Brewtech, which supplies coffee machines, and its roasteries. Unlike many concept cafes, this one’s pretty cool.

You’ll find it on a Kensington corner, its white walls and massive windows creating a gallery-like space. “Colab is the vessel to show off the roastery,” says manager Steve Calipari, who’s done stints at Code Black and Dr Morse.

“We wanted blank walls, so when people leave, the memory they have is of the coffee.”

Plants are the main decor, and greenery nerds can eye off the Schefflera and Pothos – that’s “umbrella tree” and “devil’s ivy” to non-plant types – while makers swoon over the handcrafted, low-slung stools and long communal table made from American oak.

The interior is the work of Dan Schonknecht, of Specht Design, who also customises coffee machines with timber panelling and powder coating. A furniture maker by trade, he also makes beautiful wooden coffee accessories.

Complimentary sparkling water on tap is a nice kick-off while you suss the wall-mounted, mostly jaffle menu.

The food’s all house-made, but in a commercial kitchen offsite, where owner-chef Craig Milton and Calipari do a big weekend cook.

They make pesto for the omelette jaffle with mushrooms and smoked mozzarella from Bill’s Farm, and slow-cook pork shoulder on the bone with Sichuan pepper, apple cider vinegar and fivespice.

The Szechuan pork jaffle is a ripper, by the way, the juicy meat teamed with vintage cheddar, mild kimchi and barbecue sauce.

If jaffles ain’t your thing, the soba salad has a hot chilli kick, edamame beans, and a goodly chunk of thick-cut smoked salmon.

If it’s on, grab a PBJ cookie supplied by Cobb Lane; a soft, sweet and amazing sugar explosion of peanut butter and jam. Likely though, will be sweet treats from Spotswood’s Candied Bakery, such as its rockin’ all-star lamington.

“Meet the roaster” nights run once a month, with free pints from Bonehead Brewing across the road and a barbecue or spit in Colab’s workshop out the back (check Facebook and Instagram for details).

The worst bit about Colab? It only opens weekdays! But there is talk of opening at weekends soon, so watch this space.

• Colab, 36 Stubbs St, Kensington.

The house blend

Reverence Lion Tamer is a caramelly mid-roast with good body and hints of stonefruit. This month is a rotating selection of Reverence’s all-Ethiopian single origins.

Must-have dish

Szechuan pork jaffle. Don’t freak out, but Colab doesn’t have a kitchen. What it does have are jaffle irons and really freakin’ good coffee.

• Tell us your super-hot brunch spot. Email: editorial@domain.com.au