Food: Thyme to head west

I’m not into chef’s menus. Sure, they’re crowd-pleasing options that remove the stress of decision-making, but I dislike leaving my dinner to destiny.

For example, what if I were to miss out on the creamed corn at Bar Thyme? Opened in 2021, the Footscray spot is frequented by locals and a hospitality crowd that appreciates sustainability and seasonality. They order natural wine from staff who served them in other venues, surrounded by framed menus from London in 1976. 

I do the maths on what I fancy and the $65 chef’s menu is better value. I ask what the latter entails – creamed corn is not included. I do what any self-respecting food lover would and order it as well. 

We start with pastis, because I rarely see the cloudy anise aperitif and it makes me feel like a sophisticated Parisian.

Snacky items are a best-of line-up of Melbourne wine bars. There are anchovies and stracciatella on toast with foraged onion flowers, green olive-studded mortadella with tapenade and potato focaccia with smoked schmaltz butter.

I could do without the grilled leek with more stracciatella, but could order seconds of a French-Japanese mash-up of roughly chopped raw beef with yuzu kosho, Jerusalem artichoke crisps and puffed rice.

The rest arrives as the main course: juicy pork scotch fillet beneath a tumble of celeriac remoulade (perfect with the supple, cherry notes in Tony Bornard’s Le Pinot Ctambule from Jura), golden kipfler potatoes with a dish of parmesan custard you’ll clean with your finger and, of course, that creamed corn.

Buttery and sweet with charred onion and horseradish cream, it’s the dish of the night. When I go to pay at the bar, I notice two solo diners with nothing but a glass of wine and a bowl of creamed corn. 

227 Barkly Street, Footscray
facebook.com/BarThyme

What’s nearby?

Trouble in Dreams is 220 metres from Bar Thyme. Open until 1am Wednesday through Sunday, the 25-seat bar shakes, stirs and pours cocktails in an opulent setting with cosy carpet and tasselled lampshades. Original takes change regularly but might include the Bois de Boulogne sour made with brandy, blackberry, blackcurrant and lemon.
trouble-in-dreams.myshopify.com