Melbourne's revamped Izakaya Den 2029 takes diners to the future of Japanese cuisine

When fine-dining institution Ezard didn’t reopen its doors after the first lockdown in March 2020, head chef Jarrod Di Blasi descended a different set of CBD stairs to his new post at the recently revamped Izakaya Den. 

Restaurateur Simon Denton is calling it Izakaya Den 2029, the sequel to the original, which he opened in 2009. With diners now restricted to an $80 nine-course menu ($95 with dessert, vegan available), the restaurant no longer fits the definition of a snacky izakaya – but the food has never been better.

Little has changed inside the elongated basement restaurant. Seasonal produce remains projected onto the walls and displayed along the extensive kitchen-bar. Two-person timber stools still allow for easy canoodling while nibbling additional “homage snacks”, such as seared tuna tataki – the texture of Turkish delight. 

Signs of a good time abound: not-so-subtly “Shazaming” every song on the eclectic playlist, sheepishly asking for a spoon to scoop up sauce dregs and before I know what I want to drink, Denton appears offering me a rich, umami-packed sake. As for that produce, purple-fleshed sweet potato is coated in delicate tempura batter, and red and yellow cherry tomatoes accompany snapper sashimi fanned over ice with fresh Tassie wasabi. 

The saliva-inducing scent upon entry is caramelising miso, seeping into mackerel from the hibachi grill. Hefty pork and tofu meatballs roll around in “funky sauces” (refer to the daily wall projection), a thicket of bonito flakes dancing in the heat of the dish. Dessert is generous: warm dango Mitarashi (glutinous rice dumplings in sweet soy syrup), fish-shaped taiyaki packed with vanilla, orange and Davidson plum ice cream and a handful of berries on ice. 

Food aside, I could do with an even bolder Izakaya Den 2029. Turn the lights down, music up and create Lost In Translation moments from the guts of Melbourne while we’re unable to travel. If Izakaya Den 2029 is the future, bring it on.

114 Russell Street, Melbourne, 03 9654 2977, isakayaden.com.au

What’s nearby?

Just up the road at number 126 Russell Street, CBD wine bar and restaurant Embla has set up a rooftop cinema on top of its neighbour, the Melbourne Theosophical Society. Book ahead and visit for food and drink in the afternoon, followed by film after sunset. Visit embla.com.au for more.