Nico's Sandwich Deli brings a slice of the city to Fitzroy

Number 100 Kerr Street, Fitzroy, is a cursed hospitality site: Grill’d didn’t work there; Vegan restaurant Euro Kitchen lasted about a year. So, when Tom Peasnell from Dexter, Takeaway Pizza, Kenny Lover and Dom’s (formerly Cheek and Peaches) opened Nico’s Sandwich Deli with Leo Thompson (ex-Brother Baba Budan) in November 2020, he figured it would close in March when the short-term lease ended. But Fitzroy voted with its stomach, and Nico’s is staying for good.

Under the extended summer licence, there’s room for 44 people outside on electric-blue stools beneath matching umbrellas, though that will eventually reduce to 28. The brick shopfront and garage roller door are painted the same characteristic colour, with vintage-style lettering promising “hot coffee and sandwiches”. There are five sandwiches to choose from, plus weekend specials advertised on A2 posters and Instagram.

In The Nico’s Original, buffalo mozzarella snuggles up to vine-ripened tomatoes, dill pickles, herbs, nori sheets and salad cream (an English condiment similar to mayonnaise) between slices of country-style sourdough. The bread is stained monster green by Nico’s signature chimichurri, charged with umami from Japanese koji. It also features in the panko-crumbed chicken schnitzel sanga and toasted cubano, heavy with smoked pork belly, grandma leg ham and emmental cheese.

Start the day with Seven Seeds coffee and milkshakes (try the matcha and black sesame); continue with Peroni Red, Tecate and mid-strength Colonial Small Ale or visit on a Sunday for bay-leaf-infused bloody marys. Northcote’s Kenny Lover makes the caramilk biscuit ice cream sandwiches. Pick from either coconut and rhubarb or soy sauce gelato (it works).

Nico’s first opened a takeaway shop on Healeys Lane off Little Lonsdale Street, before lockdown forced it to close after a single day of trade.

The city store will reopen by March at the latest with a similar menu, supplemented by packaged sandwiches and salads for those remembering how to be on time for the office.

What’s nearby?

Less than 200 metres from Nico’s, The Fitzroy Mills Market is on every Saturday from 9am and 2pm, and the Rose Street Artists’ Market all weekend between 10am and 4pm. Browse produce from local growers as well as artworks, jewellery, vintage fashion and other handmade items.