Oscar's at Matilda, South Yarra: A toast to family

The birth of a well-conceived restaurant bar is always reason for rejoicing. A restaurant bar is more than just an adjunct to the main dining event. It reinterprets the kitchen ethos in cocktail form and becomes a destination on its own.

Scott Pickett (ESP, Estelle, Saint Crispin) recently opened his first southside restaurant Matilda, named after his daughter.

In the interests of family harmony, he’s included an excellent basement bar to the mix and called it Oscar’s, after his son.

Oscar’s has joined the ranks of Melbourne’s well-conceived restaurant bars.

Reached via lift or theatrically lit stairs, Oscar’s mirrors the ’70s-channelling timber, brick and leather decor of the upstairs restaurant, including the feature scalloped ochre roof.

There’s a wide timber bar, extremely comfortable leather-upholstered bar stools, flattering lighting and cocktail and snack lists that tap into the earthy, smoky vibe of Matilda’s kitchen, with its wood-fired grills and ovens.

Matilda’s beverage manager and sommelier Clint Fox says that the philosophy of the bar was to tie in the same elements that were important upstairs: smoky flavours, sustainability, an interest in indigenous ingredients and locally produced products.

This is happening in two ways. First, with the use of fiery or smoky booze such as Canadian maple whisky, Laphroaig scotch or fino sherry; and second, by using ingredients from the kitchen in the cocktails, like adding the fermented capsicum that normally accompanies Matilda’s kangaroo tartare to a Bloody Mary, or using indigenous ingredients like limey, minty Geraldton wax.

“I’ve also got my eye on the cherry wood smoke in the kitchen,” Fox says. “We’ve started playing around with smoked syrups for our cocktails that will add another layer of depth and flavour.”

The cocktail list changes with the seasons. Currently it includes the Maidenii Martini that mixes local Victorian Maidenii La Tonique vermouth with a white rye from Sydney’s Archie Rose distillery and an exquisite French quince liqueur, and the darker, heavier Harry’s Reserve, that blends bourbon, green Chartreuse and an apple and chestnut liqueur over ice.

“Our approach is to source great and unusual products and ingredients and then structure our drinks around those,” Fox says. “I suppose you’d call it classics with our own twist.”

• Oscar’s at Matilda
• 159 Domain Rd, South Yarra
• 03 9089 6668

Signature drink

Archie’s Rose, $22, is a deceptively powerful combination with a subtle sweet and fruit backbeat. It combine’s Archie Rose Navy Strength gin (that packs the punch) with Dillford’s passionfruit liqueur and Massenez Framboise, an eau de vie from Alsace, distilled from wild raspberries.

Pair it with: the ridiculously delicious tartlet of bonito cream topped with salmon roe.

Just dropped

Red Hill Brewery Imperial Stout 2018, $10.50.  A limited edition part of the award-winning Red Hill Brewery’s seasonal range, this is a robust (8.1% ABV) and gorgeous stout.

Jet black with a pure white head, it’s smooth and creamy in the mouth with plenty of hearty chocolate, malt, caramel and coffee flavours to warm the cockles.

There’s an attractive balanced bitterness, too, and some decent hop action. Imperial Stout is lightly carbonated and should preferably be consumed in proximity to an open fire for maximum “ain’t winter grand” effect.