Explore Hanoi in a day, a weekend and a week

There’s never been a better time to visit Vietnam’s capital, with its abundance of history, culture and arguably the best street food on earth. Start with the chaos and romance of the Old Quarter and work your way out.

A day

Rise with the locals and do a lap around Hoan Kiem Lake, crossing the red Huc Bridge to Ngoc Son temple while residents practise tai chi with Hanoi’s emblematic Thap Rua (Turtle Tower) in the background. It’s a short stroll from La Siesta Central Hotel & Spa, new boutique accommodation in the Old Quarter, to the lake and 7B Ly Quoc Su, a noodle shop where bun reiu for breakfast costs $2 to $3.

Free walking tours led by students eager to practise English start at 9am with Hanoikids.org. Your guide can take you to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex, as well as the nearby Temple of Literature, founded in 1070. Or opt for a lesson in culture at the Museum of Ethnology and another in history at Hoa Lo Prison, aka the Hanoi Hilton.

Walk back through Hang Bac, bargaining for replica shoes. Refresh before walking to Cha Ca Thang Long on Duong Thanh for sizzling turmeric fish. After dinner, head to Bai Hoi Junction, where foreigners and locals toast beer over fried chicken cartilage.

A weekend

Taxi to the Hanoi Bicycle Collective in Tay Ho (West Lake), where you can rent a bike at $7 for half a day. It’s a leisurely ride around the lake, past Tran Quoc Pagoda, Quan Thanh Temple and Quang Ba flower market. Lunch at Pho Cuon Huong Son (19 Ngu Xa, Truc Bach), then join locals for coffee at Cafe Quat and check out the Chau Long wet market.

Another unique experience is the train street, where tracks pass between homes with barely enough room for people on either side.

An extra day also means extra eating. Follow your nose through Hang Dao Street in the Old Quarter, where a bustling night market runs Friday through Sunday.

A week

Anyone who stays more than two or three days tends to take an overnight cruise through UNESCO-listed Ha Long Bay. Overcrowding is common, but companies like the luxurious Orchid Cruises sail through Ha Long and anchor in Lan Ha Bay instead. Make time for two nights on board.

A worthwhile day trip includes a Trang An boat trip, Tam Coc’s rice fields and Vietnam’s ancient capital, Hao Lu. Have a few days to spare? Head to Sapa to hike, meet the hill tribe or simply admire the dramatic misty mountains and valleys.

Getting there

Vietnam Airlines is fastest and cheapest from Melbourne; 12.5 hours, from $770 return. Qantas, Virgin and Singapore Airlines fly return for under $1000. The weather is best in March-April and September-November.

Travel tip

Look for noodle soup joints packed with locals. Point, order and go beyond pho.