Escape to Coonalpyn, South Australia: 'If you like the country life, it's great out here'

Approximately 160 kilometres south east of Adelaide, Coonalpyn is a small town packing a big artistic punch.

A call to improve the appearance of the main street back in 2015 led to the Creating Coonalpyn project, with the simple but profound goal of rural renewal through the arts.

The centrepiece might be artist Guido van Helten’s towering silo mural — a striking rendering of local children playing — but it’s not the only artwork in town, with other murals and mosaics well worth a visit.

And when it comes to foodie culture, Coonalpyn punches above its weight when it comes to waffles with the local Waffles & Jaffles hut scoring rave reviews, and attracting keen breakfasters from as far away as Melbourne.

Population: 353, as at the 2016 Census

Who lives here?

There’s a mix of older and new people in the tight-knit community. One long standing local is Sue Mickan, who moved to Coonalpyn in 1979 and describes it as “a really good town”.

“It’s home for me, but it’s more than that,” said Mrs Mickan. “Generally speaking you can still feel safe here. I think we have a lot of support for each other.”

Waffle maestro Claudia Ait-Touati moved to the area 12 years ago with her family and also describes Coonalpyn as “a good little place”.

“It’s a typical country town,” she said. “It’s very welcoming.”

A more recent arrival is the manager of the Coonalpyn Hotel – he goes by Jonesy – and he and his wife Winnie took over the lease in 2016.

“I love Coonalpyn,” he said. “It’s a cool little town. If you like the country life, it’s great out here – it’s fantastic.”

What happens here?

Mrs Mickan said despite Coonalpyn’s small population there were many active community groups, with the football, netball, bowling, and book clubs well-patronised. There was also an active sewing group, she said, and basketball, tennis and gym facilities.

“It’s still buzzing, there’s always something happening,” she said. “The hotel and the silo cafe, that’s going really, really well.

“We’ve got a wonderful swimming pool, open in the summer months,” she added, explaining that the pool was extending its evening opening hours in order to host some events for families with a pizza night and a jazz night on the cards.

There’s also the post office, which is part of the bakery, and several churches, as well as the Coonalpyn Community Hub,  which is host to a diverse range of classes ranging from first-aid to mosaic making, to computer and tech skills, and has facilities for residents looking to complete remote tertiary study.

“You know, [just] because it’s a small town, it doesn’t mean you can’t have educational opportunities,” said Mrs Mickan.

The local school also has a library outlet, and there is a town medical centre and a local hairdresser.

What’s life like here?

The town is characterised, say locals, by its quiet pace and supportive community, with many locals volunteering with the Country Fire Service.

“They help each other a fair bit,” said Brett Dewhurst, from the Coonalpyn Silo Cafe. “There’s always someone to give you hand.”

While it’s got all the romance of the outback on its doorstep, it’s worth noticing that there’s some bigger towns relatively close by.  For a range of shops, like butchers, jewellers, and clothing stores, Murray Bridge is about an hour’s drive away, and several businesses such as Farm Fresh deliver groceries and other products to Coonalpyn.

It’s also a place, locals say, marked by its resilience.

“We’ve had businesses shut down – it’s the same story all around rural Australia,” Mrs Mickan observed. “But we haven’t let that knock us down. We just keep making things happen. I think that’s what you’ve got to do.”

What jobs are here?

Tourism is a big economic driver, with the silo artworks boosting Coonalpyn’s profile significantly.

“The highway is getting busier all the time. There’s lots of tourists coming to see the silos, they’ve been really great,” said Mr Dewhurst.

There was some work, both seasonal and permanent, in the surrounding agricultural district. “It was always very much a farming community,” Mrs Mickan said.

Because of Coonalpyn’s location on the main highway, she added, the town had regular freight deliveries and good connections to Murray Bridge and Adelaide.

“We are well positioned in that way,” said Mrs Mickan and this, coupled with the town’s affordable real estate, could provide a good opportunity for someone looking to start a business.

Why move here?

For families looking for a quiet  and affordable place to raise their kids, Coonalpyn fits the bill, with family homes available for less than $200,000. 

“It’s definitely family-friendly,” said Ms Ait-Touati, who described it as a “fantastic” place to raise children. “The school here is amazing – it’s just incredible.”

Jonesy from the Coonalpyn Hotel agreed on the outstanding local school, and said Coonalpyn was a town where “everyone is looking out for everyone”.

“Out here, it’s back to reality, and everyone talks to each other,” he said.  “It’s not for all people – some people are city people – but if you’re looking country lifestyle, laid-back, it’s a good community.”

Mrs Mickan said: “I find people friendly here, and it doesn’t take long to settle in.”

And rest assured you don’t have to worry about getting a bad latte.

“We’re spoilt for coffee. We’ve got a couple of really good coffee spots here.”