NSW far south coast: Where to visit, eat, drink and stay to support community rebuilding

By
Ashleigh Webb and Ray Sparvell
February 21, 2020
Blessed with crystal blue waters and a seafood-lover's dream, NSW's far south coast is welcoming back visitors after bushfires affected the area's usually-bustling communities. Photo: Jason Ierace

They call it the Sapphire Coast for a reason – water beyond as far as the eye can see and sunlight dancing across crystal-clear blue seas.

This treasure on the NSW’s southern tip is one of Australia’s best spots for whale watching and appreciating the vast beaches of white sands stretching up to the Eurobodalla region, the heart of Australia’s Oyster Coast.

In the first days of the new year, tourists were told to evacuate the South Coast via Batemans Bay – now they’re being asked to return and communities are waiting to embrace you like a local. You’ll find plenty of things to see and do including surfing, snorkelling, kayaking and fishing.

Batemans Bay

Distance: 278 kilometres south of Sydney, 790 kilometres north-east of Melbourne, 149 kilometres south-east of Canberra

Renowned for: Plentiful seas and being the heartland of the Eurobodalla

Batemans Bay Photo: Supplied

The pull of Batemans Bay is so great, we’d happily wager that almost every Sydney-sider or Canberran has taken at least a day trip to the shores of this coastal gem.

It’s a home away from home for many and when the out-of-control Currowan fire hit, a red haze enveloped its sky and hearts dropped in droves. While the Batemans Bay SES headquarters were lost in the blaze, the area still retains that same pull, thanks to its unwavering beauty and community spirit.

“I moved here only three weeks ago,” says Tim Booth, manager of Tourism and Events for Eurobodalla Shire Council.

Innes Boatshed at Batemans Bay, during the busy Christmas holiday period. Photo: Graham Tidy

“As cliched as it might sound, the desire to move here came from wanting to be in a strong community … where people say hello to each other and are welcoming on the street.”

Booth likes to start the morning off with a swim in the calm waters of Corrigans Beach, only five minutes away from the centre of town.

For the foodies, head to Nourish on North for an organic meal then blow all the good you’ve done at Batemans Bay Ice Creamery. They’ve been serving cones for 37 years, so you know they’re doing something right!

And, of course, a trip to the town isn’t complete without a stop in at Batemans Bay Mini Golf, loved by people of all ages.

Mogo

Distance: 287 kilometres south-west of Sydney, 798 kilometres north-east of Melbourne, 158 kilometres south-east of Canberra

Renowned for: The myriad of exotic animals to see at Mogo Wildlife Park

Mogo Zoo. Photo: Kate Lockley

Established in 1851 during the Goldrush, Mogo went from a sleepy highway town to a revitalised part of the South Coast that has brought in a number of tourists thanks to its heritage buildings and quirky stores. It’s also home to over 250 animals at the Mogo Wildlife Park, including many exotic ones.

Bushfires had crept up to the wildlife park and saw animals relocated to safer grounds. Mogo Wildlife Park director Chad Staples is encouraging tourists to visit the businesses on the Princes Highway which passes through the town.

“It’s the Australian spirit, we rally together in hard times and help our mates. We’ve been seeing that every day in Mogo, even people that have lost. I feel honoured to be a part of this community,” he says.

“It’s a beautiful old town that is desperate for people to come back.”

The town of Mogo post bushfires.The Middle of Mogo. Photo: Jamila Toderas

“The main street in Mogo has foods, arts and crafts, cafes and bookstores. About five minutes down the road are some of the most beautiful beaches in the whole country.”

Mogo is also home to the charming country restaurant Grumpy and Sweethearts, the go-to place if you’re looking for a hearty lunch or a midday drink in its leafy courtyard.

Another favourite is Mogo Pies, which just opened its doors last September.

Broulee

Distance: 295 kilometres south of Sydney, 807 kilometres north-east of Melbourne, 167 kilometres south-east of Canberra

Renowned for: Great beaches, outdoor activities and Broulee Island Nature Reserve

NewsWestpac Life Saving Rescue Helicopter crew members, Rescue Crew Officer Sean Orsborn, Air Crew Officer John Costin and Pilot Sam Wilson will be patrolling the beaches from the air on the South Coast of NSW over Summer breakBrouleeThe Canberra TimesDate: 26 November 2015 Photo Jay Cronan Photo: Jay Cronan

Broulee usually enjoys a healthy share of the annual holiday migration thanks to its laid-back lifestyle.

Just off its pristine beach is Broulee Island that offers a two-hour exploration of rockpools and coastline. North of Broulee are the villages of Mossy Point and Tomakin. It’s the perfect part of the world to hire a kayak, cast a fishing line or learn to surf.

Perhaps mark the calendar for the Broulee Bay to Breakers annual fundraising 1.4-kilometre swim on March 8.

Broulee Surf School. Photo: Supplied

Shane Wehner of the Broulee Surf School is a former professional surfer with a top 30 world ranking. He says the bushfire impact means a struggle to maintain business until next summer. “But we’ve still got a few warmer months ahead and I’d appeal to school groups, sporting clubs, those who run government programs and corporate groups to show their support,” he says.

“Broulee is open for business and we really need visitors.”

When hunger kicks in, the Broulee Surf Lifesaving Club houses the South Brou Cafe and dishes up breakfast, lunch, coffee, burgers, milkshakes and fish and chips – all served with stunning views

Moruya

Distance: 303 kilometres south of Sydney, 815 kilometres north-east of Melbourne, 175 kilometres south-east of Canberra

Renowned for: Getting the balance between country and coastal life just right

The Knoll, Morya. Photo: Ess Vaun

This close-knit community is located just a hop and skip away from some of the South Coast’s best beaches.

Local Patricia Ellis shares her Aboriginal culture, experiences and the rich diversity of Indigenous heritage through guided tours and overnight camps.

Minga Cultural Experiences will allow you to learn about the dreaming of the Eurobodalla coast, taste bush tucker and medicine and partake in a smoke ceremony within the heart of the headlands.

John Murray, owner and operator of private accommodation The Knoll Moruya says there are so many places to explore that his guests typically stay from anywhere between two nights to two weeks.

The Knoll covers nearly seven hectares of private rural land with two residences nestled upon it and enjoys a backdrop of the Great Diving Range. The Country House is big enough for 12 people while The Cottage is more suited to a couple.

“We want people to visit not only to help our town rebuild but to experience a great part of the world that has so much to offer,” says Murray.

If you’re lucky enough to score a midweek getaway, take a trip into town for the SAGE Farmers Markets, which is held at Riverside Park every Tuesday.

Narooma

Distance: 417 kilometres south of Sydney, 688 kilometres north-east of Melbourne, 219 kilometres south-east of Canberra

Renowned for: Montague Island, Narooma Lighthouse Museum, great beaches and oysters

Domain Bushfires - Far South Coast - Montague Island Nature Reserve, Narooma. Photo: Tom Park

The name “Narooma” is said to have its origins in the Indigenous word for “clear blue waters” – an apt description. Narooma offers it all: the inviting Wagonga Inlet, golden beaches and, for the active, swimming, snorkelling and diving.

Offshore is Montague Island, a sanctuary to fur seals and nearly 100 bird species. It’s accessible via a range of tours that offer day trips or, perhaps, a unique stay in its historic lighthouse accommodation.

The coastline is lined with natural attractions like the intriguing ancient rock formations – Glasshouse Rocks and Pillow Lava – at Narooma Surf Beach. At the southern end of Handkerchief Beach is a top spot for a picnic. Or you can hire a bike and pedal the coast along the Narooma to Dalmeny cycling route.

Narooma Kids Cycling Mill Bay. Photo: Supplied

Narooma is also home to a great seafood delicacy: oysters. Don’t miss the Narooma Oyster Festival in May. There’ll be two full days to snap up locally caught oysters – evidently the “world’s best” if you ask the locals.

Jasmin Symons of Montague Island Adventures & Charter Fish Narooma says the phone usually rings off the hook over summer, but it has fallen silent since the fires. “Easter is coming up and there are still warmer months to enjoy fishing – kingfish are in season, and there’s snorkelling, penguin watching and more,” says Symons

Tilba Tilba

Distance: 363 kilometres south of Sydney, 668 kilometres north-east of Melbourne, 235 kilometres south-east of Canberra

Renowned for: Being a perfectly preserved heritage village

Exterior view of the ABC Cheese Factory and Tilba Cheese Shoppe in Tilba Tilba. Photo: Paula Lay

Step back in time and pace into the National Trust-classified village of Tilba Tilba framed by lush countryside. This historic town is characterised by its preserved timber cottages and offers the perfect getaway to browse small shops and galleries or to sample local produce.

Mount Gulaga holds spiritual significance for the local Yuin Aboriginal people. Spectacular coastal views are on offer at the summit via a track that begins near La Galette restaurant.

Central Tilba, just north of Tilba Tilba, is home to many artists and artisans and their ranges of handcrafted creations. You can see them at the Tilba Woodwork Exhibition, which is usually held around June.

The Tilba Teapot Cafe at Central Tilba, Eurobodalla, South Coast, NSW. Photo: Destination NSW

No visit would be complete without a tasting at the ABC Cheese Factory. Erica Dibden co-owns the Tilba Real Dairy with her husband Nic. It operates out of the old cheese factory where visitors can watch cheesemaking or – better still – taste a variety along with other dairy products.

“Tilba is a great place and even better in the cooler months with its backdrop of mountains and forest,” she says.

“It’s great for a weekend getaway and especially convenient for those in Canberra and Sydney – there’s plenty of places to stay, eat and shop.”

If the country air works up an appetite try the local pub and cafes, La Galette restaurant or Tilba Valley Winery.

Bermagui

Distance: 380 kilometres south of Sydney, 669 kilometres north-east of Melbourne, 251 kilometres south-east of Canberra

Renowned for: An untapped haunt for game fishing

Bermagui Photo: Kit Goldsworthy

After close calls, Bermagui has gone untouched but now more than ever, tourists are being beckoned back to Bermagui by the locals, wanting to share their slice of coastal bliss.

After 50 years as a local resident, Janetta Neilson knows how to spend a day or two in the area. “You’ve got to start your day at one of our impressive cafes,” says Neilson. “You can’t go past the fresh sourdough and drool-worthy pastries of HonorBread, they’re running a bread-making course in early-to-mid March too.”

Hop on a charter boat headed to Montague Island. The hidden nature reserve is surrounded by sweeping seascapes and is as romantic as its Shakespearean name suggests.

For the creative types, Mike and Kim Collingham run pottery classes at Bermagui Mudworks, just outside of town.

“Then it’s back home to try a taste of our wonderful German restaurant, Eurolicious. There’s a Bavarian beer pretzel on the menu that’s topped with speck and cheese,” she says.

Finish the day with an 18-hole game at the Bermagui Country Club Golf Course.

Tathra

Distance: 524 kilometres south of Sydney, 603 kilometres north-east of Melbourne, 244 kilometres south-east of Canberra

Renowned for: Local oysters and a beer at the heritage Tathra Hotel

Holiday Park location shot Tathra Beachside. Photo: Supplied

Don’t miss the opportunity to stroll along the oldest deep water timber wharf on Australia’s east coast, then down some freshly shucked oysters grown in Tathra’s pristine waters or take in a sunset with fish and chips at Tathra Beach.

There’s no shortage of outdoor options including paddling on the Bega River. The more energetic may want to tackle some 50 kilometres of mountain bike tracks – perhaps in preparation for the Tathra Beach and Bike MTB Enduro over the June long weekend.

Barista making coffee at The Wharf Local cafe in Tathra. Photo: Destination NSW

Carmen Risby owns the Tathra Beachside Holiday Park and says all local businesses need support from the broader Australian community.

“A number of local campaigns have been started that encourage people in neighbouring communities to visit one another and help put some money back into town economies,” she says.

“It would be great to see that effort replicated at the big city level where people get in their cars and make the trip to the South Coast.”

And there’s plenty of variety in its range of eateries but our top picks are Wild Orchid Cafe and Tathra Bakery and Cafe.

Merimbula

Distance: 524 kilometres south of Sydney, 580 kilometres north-east of Melbourne, 343 kilometres south-east of Canberra

Renowned for: A six-kilometre long stretch of sand that’s a surfers’ paradise

Merimbula Beach at sunset, Merimbula. Photo: Kramer Creative

The crystal blue waters surrounding Merimbula are worth the drive alone. To take it all in start at The Boardwalk, it’s a leisurely 3.4-kilometre walk that can take anywhere from an hour or two, depending on how distracted you get by the staggering trees above and the beautiful seascape below.

Cat Balou Cruises has been running for 33 years and can take you one step closer, riding the waves of Twofold Bay almost every day of the year. “Kids always get a kick out of seeing dolphins and whales up close,” says owner and operator Lana Wills. Fortunately, the vast and varied marine life haven’t been frightened off by the fires.

Dulcie's Cottage, Eden. Photo: James Brickwood

Dulcie’s Cottage is where you’ll find the best grub in town. Look out for a picturesque weatherboard home that’s now fashioned as a trendy bar and eatery. Locals especially love the outdoor caravan-turned-food truck where you can tuck into an epic American-style burger along with an espresso martini. You can always drive home tomorrow.

Pambula

Distance: 452 kilometres south of Sydney, 577 kilometres north-east of Melbourne, 244 kilometres south-east of Canberra

Renowned for: Historic buildings that date back to the gold rush

Dee Gees Old Man Rock Pambula. Photo: Supplied

Local friends Kate Liston-Mills and Danielle Condon say Pambula is just as charming and beautiful as ever. “Gosh, I could go on and on about Pambula … so many stories and history within our little streetscape,” says Liston-Mills.

“We pride ourselves on our country rustic charm.”

Longstocking brewing bottles that charm in its very own on-site brewery, along with a selection of carefully curated sips like the Champagne Brut Lager.

You must try the oysters in Pambula. Photo: Jennifer Soo

“You can’t go past the oysters at Wheelers Seafood Restaurant or a steak and mushroom pie from the best bakery – Wild Ryes Bakery,” says Condon. “And a swim at Pambula Rivermouth is a must!”

For shopping, Condon suggests a trip to Pambula Village. The population stands at just 1150 so fighting for a park or nabbing the last ethically made linen jumpsuit from Zoe.O Designs shouldn’t be a problem.

Eden

Distance: 546 kilometres south of Sydney, 555 kilometres north-east of Melbourne, 265 kilometres south-east of Canberra

Renowned for: Whale watching, bushwalking and the Eden Wharf

Ocean views overlooking the Killer Whale Museum in Eden. Photo: Claudine Thornton / Destination NSW

The fires that tore through Eden inspired one of the biggest crowdfunded donations Australia has ever seen. Comedian Celeste Barber raised more than $50 million for the RFS by sharing frightening images of blistering red skies taken at her mother-in-law’s home.

Today though, Eden is the place to be between May and November to spot migrating humpback whales in the deep waters of Twofold Bay. The bay is the third-deepest natural harbour in the southern hemisphere and has a strong whaling history.

You can explore the story of orca Old Tom at the Eden Killer Whale Museum or take the self-drive Killer Whale Trail, and the annual Eden Whale Festival is a highlight in November.

Heritage House Motel and Units, Eden. Photo: Kit Goldsworthy

There is plenty to do in Eden throughout the year including the three-day Light to Light walk along the coast between the Green Cape Lighthouse and the 1847-built Boyds Tower.

“We’ve had emergency workers stay at the motel and that’s helped keep it ticking over,” Heritage House Motel and Units owner Michelle Roses says. “Our message is: Eden is a beautiful town with great natural and built attractions – you need to visit us soon.”

For the foodies, favourites include Sprout Eden, Wharfside Cafe, Finny’s By The Wharf and Ollie Mason’s Cafe & Wine Bar.

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