Two hours north of Sydney, the city of Newcastle was once best known for its BHP steelworks, coal mines and perhaps a little grunge band called Silverchair.
Fast-forward to 2016 and the once industrial Newcastle has transformed into a bustling multicultural city, the seventh biggest in Australia*, filled with boutique bars, cafes, shops and postcard-ready beaches.
After moving to Newcastle in 2002 as a UK expat, I have watched and delighted in the changes that this old steel city has undergone.
It is now as much my home as the town I grew up in, and I think I have almost been here long enough to call myself a Novocastrian.
While no city can ever be totally perfect, here are my seven favourite things about living in Newcastle:
The Anzac Memorial Walk. Photo: Laura Jackel
1. The beaches, Bathers Way and the Anzac Memorial Walk
While I might not be a very brave sea swimmer, I do appreciate the beautiful soft yellow sand and the miles of sparkling coastline we have here in Newcastle.
The newly upgraded Bathers Way walk, which stretches from Nobby’s lighthouse past Newcastle beach, the two main ocean baths, Merewether, Glenrock reserve and Burwood Beach, is a must do for any visitor. The spectacular views and intriguing sights along the way include the Bogey Hole, an early swimming pool dug from the rocks by convicts in about 1819 for the then Commandant of Newcastle.
The pedestrian Anzac Memorial Bridge, opened in 2015 and built to commemorate 100 years since the Gallipoli landings, is also a part of the Bathers Way walk. The 160-metre cliff top bridge takes you high above both the city and the sea and is perfect for whale and dolphin watching.
2. The architecture
Australia’s second oldest city is full of surprises when it comes to beautifully diverse buildings and architectural gems. Although not all have been preserved well (the old post office on Hunter Street comes to mind), there are so many gorgeous historic buildings worth visiting in the city such as Customs House, Longworth House, City Hall and the Civic Theatre.
It is not just the repurposed commercial and industrial buildings – Newcastle’s housing stock is delightfully varied and interesting from the historic brick terraces in Newcastle East and Cooks Hill to the modern glass masterpieces in Merewether and everything in between.
3. The cafe culture
While many suburbs, towns and cities across Australia can boast a great cafe culture, I truly believe Newcastle has one of the best.
From hipster Darby Street in Cooks Hill, to the grungier harbourside suburb of Maryville and on to my very own leafy New Lambton, the choice of places to get a decent flat white is phenomenal.
A firm family favourite is Corner Lane Espresso in New Lambton where they definitely know our names and our order. We all love breakfasts, coffees and milkshakes with a view at Merewether Surfhouse and a long-time love is Three Bean Espresso Apothecary Kitchen in Hamilton for its “life-changing” bread and smoked salmon and scrambled eggs.
4. Independent retailers and the CBD
In 2008, Newcastle native, author and festival director Marcus Westbury wanted to do something about the empty and dilapidated shops crowding out the once grand city centre. He began the Renew Newcastle initiative with very little funding as a way of matching landlords with creatives on short-term contracts who needed space to work and sell their wares but could not afford traditional rent.
As Renew generated interest in the CBD once more, the mix of artisanal shops, commercial chains, cafes, bars and restaurants makes the Hunter Street Mall a really interesting place to wander around at the weekend.
Check out contemporary jewellery and homewares store Studio Melt (a Renew Newcastle graduate), super on-trend fashion boutique The Lair, which specialises in handmade leather items, and to break up the shopping, why not kick back at an alfresco table and enjoy some tapas and a glass of pinot noir at Cazador?
Other unique precincts to shop in include Darby Street in Cooks Hill, which is great for designer fashion, jewellery and a plethora of places to eat, and the Islington end of Maitland Road, which is known for its antique shops and vintage finds.
Newcastle Harbour. Photo: Laura Jackel
5. The harbour
The constant flow of activity from the working harbour and port of Newcastle is endlessly fascinating for every age. From the gargantuan container and coal ships with their accompanying tug boats, to the local Stockton Ferry, occasional cruise ships, yachts, speed boats, canoeists and stand-up paddleboards, there is always a vessel or two to watch float by.
While once considered just a place of industry and work, the development of apartments, hotels, two museums and an entire restaurant precinct at Honeysuckle proves that the harbour is the place to hang out. The flat wide pathways, which now extend to the suburb of Maryville, make it perfect for cycling and for hosting numerous community and cultural events such as the Winter Heat festival and the New Year’s Eve Fireworks.
6. The arts
For a relatively small city like Newcastle, the arts and cultural offerings are impressive.
I have very much enjoyed the world-class standard of performance at the Civic Theatre, a beautiful building that is resplendent inside and out.
The city’s main art gallery is right next door to the city library and on the edge of Civic Park. It has played host to some fantastic local, national and international shows. As a family we have enjoyed the weekend art cart for kids on many occasions.
The Newcastle Community Arts Centre in Hamilton houses 30 artist studios and teaching rooms as well as the Newcastle Art Space (an artist-run gallery) and Black Box Theatre. There is also Gallery 139 on Beaumont Street, Back to Back Gallery in Cooks Hill (specialising in ceramics), Curve on Hunter Street and The Lock Up, a contemporary art space and cultural centre.
Sunset Gather Markets. Photo: Laura Jackel
7. Weekend markets
Newcastle can totally hold its own when it comes to markets, with something for everyone on each weekend.
The Hunt&Gather Markets on the third Saturday of every month are the newest kid on the block and they are most popular with the millennial crowd searching for one-off vintage items or dream catchers and hand crocheted bikinis. The live music and food offerings are always superb and although I possibly won’t be buying a bikini any time soon, I do enjoy the overall vibes.
The Olive Tree Markets have been around for a few years now and always draw a huge crowd at Civic Park the first Saturday of every month. The key is to get in early to truly appreciate the huge amount of great handmade and designed gifts, treats and clothes.
The weekly Sunday farmers markets at Broadmeadow Stadium are the best place to go for seasonal fresh fruit and vegetables. The food trucks, coffee vans and makers and bakers of every kind make this market a great place to visit week in, week out.
*Incorporating the population of the Lower Hunter and outer Lake Macquarie regions.